San Andres, Columbia to Bocas del Toro, Panama

We sailed off the hook after breakfast and buzzed past s/v Eva Marie as we departed San Andres. David and Victoria were on deck ready to wave farewell; they were anchored directly in our path and despite us shouting, “STARBOARD,” while coasting closer on a port tack they preferred to risk collision rather than hoist their anchor to get out of our way. It was all good fun as Brian sailed us around s/v Eva Marie and out the channel.

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Paul was eager to take the helm and expertly steered us through the channel. Shortly thereafter Brian set the auto pilot and we were cruising along in light winds under full sail with the main, genoa, and staysail.


“So this is cruising!?” Paul observed as we all sat, hands free, in the cockpit admiring the coastline of San Andres. Paul’s previous sail on Rode Trip was her delivery from Halifax, NS to Portsmouth, NH when we’d just bought her in 2010. On that trip, Brian and three crew members took turns hand steering during a 4-day passage. They were less than comfortable (strong winds, high seas, cold temperatures, no lee cloths on the bunks) and were learning a completely new boat on the fly. That delivery was Paul’s first and only offshore experience; this passage would prove to be a luxury cruise in comparison. Paul had been more familiar with lake racing; watching the competition, constantly trimming sails, hand steering, adjusting course to keep up with constantly shifting wind. With Paul aboard, our sails were perfectly trimmed (not that Brian’s trimming skills have dwindled, but certainly getting up and going to the foredeck to actually look at sail shape is above and beyond cruising expectations.)


Approximately 5-hours into our passage, we came upon the Albuquerque Cays. These two, small cays were completely surrounded by coral reefs. An excellent stop for snorkeling and spearfishing! We anchored Rode Trip in about 20-feet of water, dropped the dinghy, and grabbed our gear. Brian gave Paul a short tutorial on how to use the Hawaiian sling. I was on dinghy duty while the guys explored below the water. Paul is certified to scuba dive. He’s visited many reefs, but this was the first time that he was not observing the beauty of the coral and fishes. Paul was now on the hunt! Our survival at sea depended on whatever fascinating fish or lobster he could kill! Brian managed to spear two Spanish lobsters. They were so small compared to the lobsters in New England or the Bahamas that we looked at them as though they would hardly provide appetizer. Spanish lobsters grow to only 8-inches long. Back at the boat, Brian prepped fried rice and lobster for dinner while Paul and I readied the boat to get back underway.DCIM101GOPRO


During the nights, we each took a 4-hour shift; Brian started 8pm-12am, then I took 12am-4am, and Paul took 4am-8am. It was smooth sailing and we all had plenty of sleep. Paul seemed to think that the bunk with a lee cloth was much more comfortable than being packed in-between sails in the v-berth as was his first experience aboard Rode Trip. During the days, we tried to stay cool and Paul tried to stay out of the sun. Both of these tasks would have been much easier if Rode Trip had a dodger and/or bimini. But we don’t, so we sweated it out. Paul and I kept our eyes on the sea whenever outside, but we saw more garbage than sea creatures. We also spotted one very bloated, dead sea turtle floating on the surface and one massive water spout amidst some passing squalls. The guys set the fishing line often; we caught one barracuda and threw it back. Although Paul likened the passage to a camping trip, he did enjoy the food. Eggs and plantains for breakfast, fresh bread each day, homemade carrot with coconut milk soup, and homemade cookies for late-night fixes.DCIM101GOPRODCIM101GOPRO

Paul enlightened us with all of the current events and new technology that we’d been missing back in the states. He brought several gadgets with him and thought of various forms of data collection that he could do aboard Rode Trip. On day two, we did speed trials. Paul set the GPS on his android phone within clear view of the cockpit. Then, he focused on sail trip and steered course. The GPS displayed speed in kilometers per hour; despite his best efforts we didn’t increase beyond 10kph which is roughly 5 knots. Not too shabby for the Wetsnail in 10-12 knots of wind. The guys were quite happy with their performance!




We sighted land on our third day and Paul very nautically shouted, “Land ho!” Panama lay straight ahead!


Schools of fish were jumping and gulls were swooping very nearby, so rather than head straight for the entrance to Bocas del Toro the guys took advantage of this opportunity for some more deep sea fishing. Brian caught a tasty lunch! While I broiled the fish, Brian and Paul navigated us toward Bocas where we’d soon set the hook – our third country this year!



Ani’s Beach

Welcome to Ani’s Beach (aka Flamingo Cay)!  Brian and I headed to the beach first thing during our first morning at Flamingo.  We made a campfire ring, gathered some firewood, and pitched our backpacking tent to provide Ani some shade.  We wanted the scene set so that everyone could enjoy the beach throughout the day and into the evening.

Ashley & Ani

Ashley & Ani

IMG_8139That day everyone explored and relaxed…

Ashley & Ani visit Grandpa Don

Ashley & Ani visit Grandpa Don

Me, Tania, Ashley, & Ani hiking with Shellee (our photographer) to the shrimp pools...and beyond!

Me, Tania, Ashley, & Ani hiking with Shellee (our photographer) to the shrimp pools.


Red shrimp, or should we say...appetizer?

Red shrimp, or should we say…appetizer?

The fishing posse returned!!  And they were successful!IMG_8153

Ren stands by while Bailey inspects the conchs

Ren stands by while Bailey inspects the conch

Brian & Jamel with their hogfish

Brian & Jamel with their hog fish

Ray & Genna

Ray & Genna

What a spectacular spread for supper at Ani’s Beach!

hummus, risotto, coleslaw, couscous salad, collard greens, cornbread, and of course cookies and s'mores for dessert

Hummus, risotto, coleslaw, couscous salad, collard greens, cornbread, and of course cookies and s’mores for dessert.

Ray, Ren & Brian fire up the grill

Ray, Ren & Brian fire up the grill

Jamel, Brian, & Ren - these boys love bugs!

Jamel, Brian, & Ren – these boys love bugs!

Tania braves Ray's spicy grouper

Ray unveils his spicy grouper



Hog Fish seasoned with sour orange, salt, & pepper

Winding down after a stellar day…Ray, Jamel, and Ren share a jam session, unplugged.IMG_8180

Shellee, Genna, & Brian

Shellee, Genna, & Brian