San Andres, Columbia to Bocas del Toro, Panama

We sailed off the hook after breakfast and buzzed past s/v Eva Marie as we departed San Andres. David and Victoria were on deck ready to wave farewell; they were anchored directly in our path and despite us shouting, “STARBOARD,” while coasting closer on a port tack they preferred to risk collision rather than hoist their anchor to get out of our way. It was all good fun as Brian sailed us around s/v Eva Marie and out the channel.

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Paul was eager to take the helm and expertly steered us through the channel. Shortly thereafter Brian set the auto pilot and we were cruising along in light winds under full sail with the main, genoa, and staysail.

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“So this is cruising!?” Paul observed as we all sat, hands free, in the cockpit admiring the coastline of San Andres. Paul’s previous sail on Rode Trip was her delivery from Halifax, NS to Portsmouth, NH when we’d just bought her in 2010. On that trip, Brian and three crew members took turns hand steering during a 4-day passage. They were less than comfortable (strong winds, high seas, cold temperatures, no lee cloths on the bunks) and were learning a completely new boat on the fly. That delivery was Paul’s first and only offshore experience; this passage would prove to be a luxury cruise in comparison. Paul had been more familiar with lake racing; watching the competition, constantly trimming sails, hand steering, adjusting course to keep up with constantly shifting wind. With Paul aboard, our sails were perfectly trimmed (not that Brian’s trimming skills have dwindled, but certainly getting up and going to the foredeck to actually look at sail shape is above and beyond cruising expectations.)

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Approximately 5-hours into our passage, we came upon the Albuquerque Cays. These two, small cays were completely surrounded by coral reefs. An excellent stop for snorkeling and spearfishing! We anchored Rode Trip in about 20-feet of water, dropped the dinghy, and grabbed our gear. Brian gave Paul a short tutorial on how to use the Hawaiian sling. I was on dinghy duty while the guys explored below the water. Paul is certified to scuba dive. He’s visited many reefs, but this was the first time that he was not observing the beauty of the coral and fishes. Paul was now on the hunt! Our survival at sea depended on whatever fascinating fish or lobster he could kill! Brian managed to spear two Spanish lobsters. They were so small compared to the lobsters in New England or the Bahamas that we looked at them as though they would hardly provide appetizer. Spanish lobsters grow to only 8-inches long. Back at the boat, Brian prepped fried rice and lobster for dinner while Paul and I readied the boat to get back underway.DCIM101GOPRO

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During the nights, we each took a 4-hour shift; Brian started 8pm-12am, then I took 12am-4am, and Paul took 4am-8am. It was smooth sailing and we all had plenty of sleep. Paul seemed to think that the bunk with a lee cloth was much more comfortable than being packed in-between sails in the v-berth as was his first experience aboard Rode Trip. During the days, we tried to stay cool and Paul tried to stay out of the sun. Both of these tasks would have been much easier if Rode Trip had a dodger and/or bimini. But we don’t, so we sweated it out. Paul and I kept our eyes on the sea whenever outside, but we saw more garbage than sea creatures. We also spotted one very bloated, dead sea turtle floating on the surface and one massive water spout amidst some passing squalls. The guys set the fishing line often; we caught one barracuda and threw it back. Although Paul likened the passage to a camping trip, he did enjoy the food. Eggs and plantains for breakfast, fresh bread each day, homemade carrot with coconut milk soup, and homemade cookies for late-night fixes.DCIM101GOPRODCIM101GOPRO

Paul enlightened us with all of the current events and new technology that we’d been missing back in the states. He brought several gadgets with him and thought of various forms of data collection that he could do aboard Rode Trip. On day two, we did speed trials. Paul set the GPS on his android phone within clear view of the cockpit. Then, he focused on sail trip and steered course. The GPS displayed speed in kilometers per hour; despite his best efforts we didn’t increase beyond 10kph which is roughly 5 knots. Not too shabby for the Wetsnail in 10-12 knots of wind. The guys were quite happy with their performance!

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We sighted land on our third day and Paul very nautically shouted, “Land ho!” Panama lay straight ahead!

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Schools of fish were jumping and gulls were swooping very nearby, so rather than head straight for the entrance to Bocas del Toro the guys took advantage of this opportunity for some more deep sea fishing. Brian caught a tasty lunch! While I broiled the fish, Brian and Paul navigated us toward Bocas where we’d soon set the hook – our third country this year!

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New Places, Familiar Faces

Rode Trip has experienced a whirlwind of excitement since we departed Providencia. We set out one fine morning, accompanied by friends aboard s/v Eva Marie, and sailed a smooth, 60nm day to the neighboring Columbian island of San Andres. We had a fantastic sail and lots of fun chatter on the VHF while sailing in good company. We anchored at San Andres and were able to connect with the clearance agent there, Rene Torres. Even though we had already cleared into and paid our Columbian fees, we still had to hand over $50 for Rene to receive our Zarpe (clear out paperwork) from Providencia. Rene was prompt, friendly, and also coordinated our clear-out paperwork with Immigration when we were ready to depart San Andres. This would not have been a stop along our route had it not been for some quick planning by our very good friend, Paul…

From the moment we’d arrived at San Andres, it was evident that this was the BIG city! (I say that having spent the previous 5 months in the Bahamas and Providencia, so in reality it was like a small town to those of you landlubbers who frequent actual cities.) A view of the cityscape was on the horizon as we sailed past numerous tour boats along the entrance channel. The island landscape was very different from that of Providencia; the island was also surrounded by coral reefs but was low-lying and had been overbuilt with hotels, stores, busy streets, etc.

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…about our very good friend, Paul. He had been hoping to visit us since we’ve moved aboard Rode Trip. Paul truly understands the cruiser guidelines, “You (visitors) can select a location to visit or a time to visit but you (visitors) cannot select both.” Paul’s previous attempts to visit failed because of our schedule/weather conflicts and his schedule conflicts, but this time the universe had aligned! I received a message from Paul, “…where are you? how long will you be there? where will you be next?” All appropriate questions; I’d answered that we were at Providencia and headed to Bocas del Toro, Panama. I’d added that Paul could join us for the passage to Bocas, since he is a sailor and we do love the extra sleep that a 3-manned passage provides (thanks, BMac for establishing our 3-man passage schedule). Within minutes of Paul asking for our current location, he had searched the all-knowing WorldWideWeb and found flights and ferry schedules…long story short he booked a flight from Chicago to Panama City to San Andres. We couldn’t be more excited!

We walked to the airport to meet Paul. En-route, Brian and I discussed airports and we couldn’t even think of an airport in the states that we could have walked to if we’d wanted to. We were both surprised to find a Hershey’s Chocolate shop in the airport…and a Hello Kitty “MAX Kitty” These are the things we miss arriving by sailboat.

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Welcome Paul!! (a.k.a. Pablo, in Columbia) After hugs, Paul got down to business playing an augmented reality game called Ingress (BORING!) Paul really loves this game; the object is to make triangles by accessing GPS-based portals…bla, bla, bla…it was created by Google and there are portals all over the world…bla, bla, bla…there is some point system…and there are lots of rules. Brian is very interested in this game. I am not and Paul’s wife, Emily, is not. So thank goodness we had no agenda (hence cruising) and it was Paul’s vacation and we entertained this madness.

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Then, we meandered though the San Andres streets…

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…pausing for a photo shoot at some street benches…

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Oh hello, Rasta, check out Ingress it’s awesome!

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Yes, I’d love braids!

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Got a little Captain in ya!

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Supper time!

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No better way to start a passage than to share the night with fellow cruisers, good music, and a rum sampling (rums from Panama, Columbia, Nicaragua, Jamaica, and an added bonus Gin from good ‘ol Canada).

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